Radin’s Delicatessen, owned by Russ Cowan, has finally opened in Short Hills, replacing the old Short Hills Deli in the area. The deli is named after the Radin siblings, a commemoration of their popular delis in Manhattan and Brooklyn during the early 1900s. Russ Cowan himself is an accomplished deli owner, at one point owning the Famous 4th Street deli in Philadelphia. He recently sold that deli to begin his journey here in Cherry Hill.

On Friday night, my family and I arrived at Radin’s Delicatessen at 6:45pm. Considering the long line we had to get through, we were surprised to see that it only took us 15 minutes to have a seat in the dining area. 9pm is the store’s closing time, so arriving near closing hours was an ideal time to endure less waiting times.

The interior of the deli is reminiscent of diners in certain ways. Upon entering, vibrant orange-tiled walls, teal lights, and shiny tables and countertops welcome you. There are collections of photos all about the waiting area – not the dining area – that depict the Radin siblings and their various establishments. There are charming light-up signs, and various props that look straight out of a 60s diner. The diner aesthetic is coupled with a generally retro one as well. In fact, nothing really reminds you of modern interior design when in Radin’s Delicatessen, which is honestly refreshing. The long dining hall also has the same diner-retro aesthetic, and is right across from the large casket of desserts and pastries that the deli offers on their menu.

Regarding the menu, it offers an astonishing amount of food, ranging from overstuffed sandwiches to salad bowls. Most of the offerings on their menu are served in large portions. One thing that pleasantly stood out to me was that under their Ungashtupt Sandwiches were dishes named after places in New York where the Radin family owned delicatessens. Having that minute extra personalization really goes a long way in the overall consistency of the theming of the restaurant.

Together with my family, we ordered onion rings for our appetizer; and a BLT, Franklin Avenue, and Cheesesteak for our entrees. The onion rings were addicting finger food, but they were lacking in salt and in any prevailing flavor.
Notwithstanding, the entrees were just spectacular. Sandwiches usually do not interest me much (I avoid them when I can), but the sandwiches at Radin’s Deli were splendid. The Franklin Avenue, one of the commemorative New York dishes, was an enormous dish, but packed with flavor. The sweet Russian dressing was perfect for the salty pastrami and corned beef combo, and made for a mouth-watering taste. The BLT was standard. The bacon was great for providing an essential contrast to the tomato and lettuce. The Cheesesteak was another highlight of the night. The filling consisted of a great meat and cheese combination, as cheesesteaks usually do, but the absolute star of that dish is the baguette. The Cheesesteak is served inside an entire whole baguette, and while unconventional in concept, Radin’s warranted this idea. The baguette had a great texture: hard, yet soft in all the right places, and even lasted until the next day.

Equally as spectacular were the desserts. We ordered a variety of desserts for to-go, but the one that all had us in awe was the Cannoli Cake. Instead of having to make a cannoli, the ingredients of a normal cannoli were taken and put into a (rather large) cake. The ricotta cream barely even tastes like ricotta; it instead achieves a balance of being heavenly sweet yet not too heavy. The balanced cream complements the crumbly cake amazingly, making for a wonderful overall balance in the dish.

Radin’s Delicatessen is a great time for families, and anyone interested remotely in delis around Cherry Hill. It provides inspired menu offerings that feel ingrained with the overall goal and ambience of the restaurant. It is creatively decorated and especially welcoming. All of this – together with a price that did not even surpass the $150 mark – earns Radin’s Delicatessen a compelling recommendation.